Took a few liberties of my own with varying the style for a more pragmatic connection between the Rough Cut and Stryfe, as well as a SlyDev sight piece (actually a jolt connector) for an iron sight appeal. Both the barrel and Rough Cut are still detachable, but the Stryfe must be unscrewed to do so. The Stryfe has lock removal and electronic lock bypass (with the exception of the jam door sensor, I like to be able to insta-kill the motors) and the Rough Cut is completely stock internally. Both perform outstandingly.
Tuesday, January 1, 2013
Stryfe w/ Rough Cut Masterkey
I present to you, the [Solscud style] JSI Stryfe Masterkey. Happy New Years.
Took a few liberties of my own with varying the style for a more pragmatic connection between the Rough Cut and Stryfe, as well as a SlyDev sight piece (actually a jolt connector) for an iron sight appeal. Both the barrel and Rough Cut are still detachable, but the Stryfe must be unscrewed to do so. The Stryfe has lock removal and electronic lock bypass (with the exception of the jam door sensor, I like to be able to insta-kill the motors) and the Rough Cut is completely stock internally. Both perform outstandingly.
Took a few liberties of my own with varying the style for a more pragmatic connection between the Rough Cut and Stryfe, as well as a SlyDev sight piece (actually a jolt connector) for an iron sight appeal. Both the barrel and Rough Cut are still detachable, but the Stryfe must be unscrewed to do so. The Stryfe has lock removal and electronic lock bypass (with the exception of the jam door sensor, I like to be able to insta-kill the motors) and the Rough Cut is completely stock internally. Both perform outstandingly.
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
rewire the jam door sensor to the acceleration trigger if you haven't already. works wonders for deceleration for mine
ReplyDeletehow are you cutting the trigger down that far without issues? are you gluing it in place?
ReplyDeleteEssentially the trigger is epoxied in place and secured with a ziptie while drying, then the plastic is removed with a dremel, with only what is necessary to keep the trigger rod (internal) fixed in the back position. I guess you could do the same thing with a nut & bolt and remove even more of th actual trigger assembly.
Delete